Vacation in Guyana 8

Here is the group photograph- to prove we made it.

Susan and I take a well earned rest- Tony's walking sticks stayed with us.

After we returned, by air, to Georgetown, Rosie, Clare and I watched the film "Up" via the lap top screen, huddled in the one double bed, under the mosquito net.

Although the film tells of an adventure of discovery to Paradise Falls, Venezuela, the opening scene is sufficiently reminiscent of Kaiteur for us to claim recognition.

The film's themes seemed a fitting finale to our Kaiteur hike.

On Sunday 15th April Rosie and Clare flew back to the UK and I prepared to take up my work as a volunteer for the next and final twelve weeks of my placement.

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Hike to the Kaiteur Falls.

Within the Kaiteur National Park is Guyana's most famous natural feature: the Kaiteur Falls. Five times the size of Naigara, at 741 feet, (with 822 feet to the bottom of the gorge) Kaiteur is the world's largest single drop waterfall.

As time, energy and good health were all in supply, we had formed a party of six to take a four day hike, up the Potaro river, combining boats, walking and climbing, and staying overnight in wooden lodging houses, or in quickly constructed tarpaulin shelters, carrying all our belongings and supplies.

As we progressed inland, moving from tarmac road to rough dirt tracks, encountering small occupied or abandoned mining settlements on riverside locations we were aware of the remoteness, the lack of human habitation or interference with nature.
Our expedition was lead by Tony (Anthony Melville), an experienced Amerindian from the Patamuna tribe, who features in the documentary film The White Diamond (2004, director Werner Herzog) about  the history of aviation and an attempt to fly over the forest canopy of Guyana, including Kaiteur, in an airship.

Tony took us up river by boat, stopping at smaller waterfalls to enjoy the sheer beauty of nature, adapting and changing our schedule according to weather, the availability of the few boats on the river and the endurance of individuals in our party.

View from the island on the Potaro river where we spent our first night

Rapids along the Potaro- surrounded by endless miles of uninhabited lands

In spite of several soakings and anxieties about dangerous wildlife (unrealised) everyone kept in good spirits, sharing the biscuits, cereal bars and (cold) tinned beans, mosquito spray, baby wipes and the poor taste jokes. Nature is a great leveller.  Coming from four different countries:- the UK, the Netherlands, the USA and Canada:- and following Tony's lead, we helped each over rocks, on to wobbling boats, waited when one person was tired, was taking photographs and answering the call of nature.
As if by order, it rained for most of the second day, the boats we used were leaky and by nightfall we arrived soaking and exhausted at a lodge. Hammocks had to be strung up, food unwrapped and shared at one table, then preparations made (extremely limited and basic) for retiring for the night.

Tessa and Drew outside our lodgings for the night.

On the third morning- the day of the final boat journey to the far reaches of the Kaiteur Falls and a climb of over 700 feet to the plateau, the weather cleared and we were blessed with sunshine with occasional cooling clouds.

The damp and discomfort of the previous day evaporated as we rose to our challenge and slowly made our way, step by step, following Tony along the vaguely defined trail.

Tony, noting that two of us- me at 55 and Susan at 65- were a little slower than the others, and fashioned walking sticks for each of us, using the knife/machete implement he walked with.

Our long sweaty tiring hike was rewarded when we reached the first of three viewing points for the Falls.
Unlike tourist attractions and sites in the UK, where protective fencing is erected, areas marked and facilities installed and charged for and commercial potential exploited, sometimes ruining what should be enjoyed, here we were able to sit dizzyingly close to the edge and enjoy the power of the Falls, watching the swifts which nest in safety behind the actual Falls darting overhead.

Rosie, Clare and I pose for a picture.


And- don't look at the next picture if you are scared of heights- as I am.

The item of furniture just visible on the right of the picture is a standard wooden park bench- for taking the view.

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More boats

Susan and Tessa bail out- one leaky boat.

The  Corentyne river village boat- disembarking at Orealla.
(We arrived at 3am)

All aboard the village boat to Orealla, amid the cargo (including crates of live chicks) and other passengers.

Hiking- in the rain forest.

Our plane- which picked us up at Kaiteur, flew us back over the waterfall, then on, via Mahdia, back to Georgetown.

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Boats- continued.

The car and passenger ferry across the Essiquibo- on our way to the Kaiteur Falls (photo K Bailey)

On a small river boat, along the Potaro river.

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Coming from a country dependent on the privately owned vehicle and to a lesser extent public transport, getting around in Guyana is certainly a challenge.
Taxis
In Georgetown, where care over personal safety is important at all times, we relied mainly on local taxis.

There is no system of public transport in Guyana, though regulation of vehicles does operate.

Around and between the main towns mini-bus services operate.

If leaving from a main terminus, passengers are confronted by drivers urging you to choose their particular bus. As vehicles only leave once completely full, a head count of those already aboard help determine selection.
Music will be played throughout the journey, at full volume, according to the driver's preference:- gospel, soul (cheesy pop), soca, chutney, reggae or a local radio station will be on offer.
"Maximum passenger numbers" is an advisable figure. Individuals call the conductor- who acts as money collector, door operator and logistics adviser for the driver-saying when to stop along the route.
Luggage is carried wherever it can be stored; comfort is secondary.

Buses

We used the buses to travel between towns.

photo- Trek earth

In the eastern region, Berbice, the Tapir vehicle is used for taxi-ing. These vehicles were built in Guyana and are extremely basic.

Boats

Guyana means land of many rivers. During our three weeks we crosses many of those rivers in a variety of boats.

Climbing on to the speedboat at the stelling

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A key holiday goal was to see Guyana beyond Georgetown and the coastal strip- where 90% of the population live travelling into the remote sparsely populated interior.
A very slow, lazy week was spent in the Amerindian village of Orealla, 50 miles up the Correntyne River which forms Guyana's eastern border with Surinam.

Fitting in with a culture means adapting to local ways. As our Guest House, the only one, in Orealla seemed to double as a local meeting place and drop in centre for village residents, we regularly found ourselves in conversation or playing games with local children. It had been recommended we bring some board games, colouring books, crayons and the like, and as our bounty was revealed, it was as though Santa and his sleigh had arrived.

Above the river bank level, after scaling a steep rough path, used daily by all, we came to the upper village level on a plateau about 100 feet above the river level.
Here beyond the village lay savannah and areas of forest, and within a forest tract, the owners of Orealla Guest House are developing a creek for holiday use. We were taken, by tractor, to the benab (an open structure with a roof made of local materials), where we could change and swim.

Previously I had rejected all persuasions, but this creek was special. The surface of the water was patterned with lilies, there was a total absence of litter (a huge problem across the populated areas of Guyana) and the setting was secluded, unlike a crowded creek "resort".
The water was the typical tea or "black" colour, cool and with a silky feel. The current was deceptively strong: moving downstream became an easy glide; working back upstream was akin to the exercise bicycle, all motion and no progress.
In this way Rosie, Clare and I celebrated my 55th birthday.

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Reminders of Guyana's colonial past- some pleasant-some less so- are everywhere.
The Promenade Gardens, now a public garden, occupies a portion of the site once used for the public execution of slaves involved in the 1823 uprising on the east coast of Demerara. The park, which once held the largest collection of wild orchids in the Caribbean, has recently been renovated after a period of neglect. With its statue of Gandhi and monument to the Arya Samaj movement it is an important symbolic venue for days of commemoration and inter-faith observance.

The annual Easter Hat Parade, in its 34th year and organised by the Inner Wheel of the Georgetown Rotary club had the characteristics of its English counterpart, but with a Caribbean twist. The event takes place in the Promenade Gardens, where laid gravel paths make symmetrical patterns and enclose beds of  pruned perennial flowering shrubs and trees.
The hats- some illustrated above, from the Original category, the others being Elegant and Topical- were typically home made adornments of and additions to a simple bought frame. Contestants paraded around the bandstand and one by one, walked up the steps to pose for the judges, seated along a table crowded with shining trophies at the foot of the stand.
While a background CD accompanied the competition, between the events and the results, the Guyana Police Steel Band provided soft calypso-style melodies.
Purchasing special tickets entitled us to join our land-lady- who seemed to know many of the people there- at the tea tables, under awnings, where "Afternoon Tea"- sandwiches, savoury pastries, sweet sponge cake and tea with milk and sugar- was served.
The snacks were promoted by Lipton's tea, and staff uniformed accordingly.

Vacation in Guyana

On Sunday 25th March, I met Rosie and Clare at Cheddi Jagan airport and we began our three week vacation in Guyana.

My room in the shared flat in Georgetown was our somewhat compact base. The adjoining balcony, the covered patio area in the garden and the swimming pool area of the Pegasus Hotel were our spaces for eating, talking, reading and general relaxation/ flopping exhaustedly in the excess heat and humidity.

Kite flying- the soaring kites represent the resurrection of Christ

As the vacation straddled Easter, teachers I know invited us to join their children's kite flying sessions in the parks and along the sea wall. Traditionally kites are home made, constructed with great care and pride, using paper, cloth, lightweight woods or bamboo, string or twine and ribbons, although most on display seemed to be bought.  There are competitions for the best, the largest, the noisiest, the smallest-a seemingly endless range of kites. Schools bring pupils onto nearby parks for the last days of the Spring term. For a week before Easter, where ever we travelled, the sky would be dotted with kites. Easter Monday is the key day, when whole families come together to picnic, fly kites and "lime".

When we walked through the Botanical Gardens later on Easter Monday afternoon, hoping to see the manatees (sea cows), there were no spare patches of grass left for sitting in a park full of picnics, vendors selling iced drinks and snacks, parked vehicles playing loud soca music and sagging kites following running toddlers as the adults settled to conversation and relaxation while teenagers flirted  for attention. We caught the mood- but as visitors and tourists, slipped back home  for iced cokes, ginger ale, lime and rum.

Georgetown sea wall- Easter Monday

Religion 3

At the invitation of my neighbour, and with a mix of motivations- respect for belief, curiosity, cultural interest- I twice went to the First Assembly of God church, the second time being Easter Sunday.

Photo- internet- A mix`of formality and joyful participatory  celebration

The service began at 7am, but under Maria's direction, we left our flats early, to be in time to get "a good seat". By 7.15 am the building was full, including the overflow seating in the aisles, with about 300 people in attendance. The dress code was formal and elaborate. In the first 20 minutes while the pastor lead a question and answer session to encourage the congregation to voice their belief in God and Jesus, I had time to look around. The building is a simple concrete structure, with basically crafted wooden bench seating, fluorescent lighting strips and ceiling fans. There are more women than men in attendance. There are people of all ages there. At the front, facing the congregation, on a raised platform, is a lectern for the pastor, four musicians all linked to a sound system and four backing singers, also with microphones. At each side of the platform, suspended from the ceiling, there is a TV screen.

After the introductions, the Pastor begins to sing- soulfully-the words of the first hymn appear on the TV screens, the congregation rises and the hall is immediately filled with loud, rich singing accompanied by guitar, keyboard and percussion. The room sways in time with the music. Although I do not know the first tune, as the chorus repeats and there are many verses I can pick up the melody and sing along. I enjoy this.

After the first hymn, the singing continues- and for the next hour we work through a repertoire, singing, swaying, even dancing along, smiling at each other. For me, the atmosphere partly resembles that of a small music venue at home, where a tribute band are playing a well known back- catalogue. But in addition to the sheer pleasure in singing, individuals are declaring their faith and belief.

The next part of the service allows the choir and the church dancers to entertain and uplift the congregation. The singing- in four part harmony - is flawless. The dancers have an "interpretive" routine to a gospel recording, which involves lyrically energetic movements and lasts for some 15 minutes.

After yet more singing, the congregation the settles to listen to the pastor. Any small businesses owned by the church members are actively promoted by the pastor. The lesson begins with a summary of the sermon displayed as a power point on the TV screens. The reading of any biblical references is encouraged. Open agreement with the pastor's arguments is sought after, and given. The sermon is peppered with jokes and the congregation laughs heartily. Small children dutifully sit, or quietly play.  I take the time to review my personal thoughts.

photo- internet- Everyone joins in the singing

After three hours, the service is over and we leave, shaking hands and hugging people as we go.

I continue to respect the beliefs of others and the visits have given me a greater insight into the culture and practices which have developed in Guyana.

Similarly the Hindu Mandirs range from the modest to the imposing.

When I attended the InterFaith service to celebrate the forty fifth anniversary of the Ptolemy Reid Rehabilitation Centre (which provides health and education services for children and adults in day and residential care),  I noted the prayers, the principles and values of each of the invited representatives of faiths were remarkably similar- and all were values I could agree with.

But when activities move from the social to the political sphere, the racial and religious divides surface:- the Indo- Guyanese continue to identify with the incumbent (though now a minority government) Peoples Progressive Party; the Afro- Guyanese with the newly formed A Party for National Unity (APNU)- which appealed in the recent elections to all Guyanese regardless of race, but is now locked in opposition to the PPP, performing the previous role of the mainly Afro- Guyanese Peoples National Congress (PNC) from which it grew.

Religion

There are three main religions followed and actively practised in Guyana:- Christianity (50% population), Hindu (35% population) and Muslim (10% population).
Their origins mirror the colonial past, with European Christianity and East Indian Hindu and Muslim faiths arriving with the plantation masters and the indentured labourers respectively. Active missionaries from neighbouring Brazil and Venezuela and the wealthy North American countries add to the amazing range of churches, and also helps to explain the predominance of the Christian faith in the Amerindian communities.

The photographs- all from the internet- give an idea of the range of churches-  older simple Lutheran wooden structures, formal Anglican and Roman Catholic imposing buildings, newer smarter Seventh Day Adventist churches, small gospel churches- the list could go on.