The guided tour of Georgetown, Guyana's capital- 4

Two major political figures summarise both Guyana's move from colonial dependence to independence and the political divide, based on race, which arose and persists to this day.

Cheddi Jagan, with his wife Janet (US born) teamed with Linden Forbes Burnham to form the Peoples' Progressive Party in 1950. The  pre and post war period saw similar movements towards independence and embracing versions of socialism and communism as alternatives to a colonial and capitalist dominated rule across the Caribbean, Africa and India as the former British Empire finally gave way.
The PPP the underwent splits, with Forbes Burnham setting up what would eventually become the Afro-Guyanese based Peoples National Congress (PNC) , in opposition to the PPP, now identified as Indo-Guyanese.

With evidence of international interference, (based on accusations of communist plottings) Jagan's earlier electoral success in the fledgeling democracy of the fifties finally faltered after the world's longest General Strike- lasting 80 days in 1963-broke his authority. A year later Burnham made an alliance with a minority party and became Premier of British Guiana, later becoming the first President of the Cooperative Republic.

For 21 years, until Forbes Burnham's death in 1985, his controversial PNC rule lead Guyana through optimistic times through to economic disaster. Since, the PPP has held political power, with Jagan elected as President in 1992, holding the post until he died, when his wife Janet was eventually appointed, then Bharrat Jagdeo taking office in 1999.

Today, Jagan is publicly celebrated. The country's main airport is named after him. His Book "The West on Trial" exposes how the strivings for democratic self rule were undermined.

The Cheddi Jagan Research Centre (The Red House)- Georgetown

Forbes Burnham's death (1985) saw an ending of a period of increasingly autocratic rule and diminishing of democratic rights. Only in 1992 were verified free and fair elections held once again. Probably as a consequence, although there is a public memorial to Burnham in the Botanical Gardens, evidence of the tremendous optimism which independence under his rule brought, is harder to find.  A lasting legacy is the Caricom trade movement.

(Above) The International Secretariat of the Caricom movement- an economic partnership of the Caribbean countries- founded by Forbes Burnham, boasts one of the biggest most sophisticated buildings in the whole of Guyana.

(More frivolously, last week the dance class I go to had invitations to a social evening, at the Apex Ballroom Club, Festival City, South Ruimveldt. The venue was a Lions club in an urban district of Georgetown. "Festival City" was built through "self help" to house the contingents from the 30 participating countries who came to the first Carifest- to celebrate Caricom through the Arts- in 1972. After the Carifest, local volunteers were able to purchase the houses through easy-to- repay schemes.)

And finally, a third political figure:- well known to students of African studies and left politics:- Dr Walter Rodney, whose PhD thesis, "How Europe Underdeveloped Africa" became essential reading. As the title says, Rodney garnered evidence to demonstrate how the colonial powers, rather than offering a two way give and take, in fact deliberately exploited areas of the continent. With the later demise of so- called Marxist regimes in Africa, eg Zimbabwe, Rodney's work is now viewed more critically, but remains an important work, given the continued poverty of many African states and the shift in world super-powers.
After studying at the London School of Economics, Walter Rodney returned to his country to devote himself to local politics, co- founding the left wing Working People's Alliance (WPA) and openly criticising the increasingly powerful Forbes Burnham. He was killed by a bomb in 1980, the third  leading member of the WPA to die in mysterious circumstances. Poets Martin Carter and Linton Kwesi Johnson wrote commemorative verses after his death.

The Walter Rodney Memorial, Hadfield Street.

The flag and national coat of arms of this "young" country are seen everywhere- in taxis, on buses, in all public buildings. They embody the aspirations of the optimistic and proud side of Guyanese life.